Ignition on, clicking noise

This almost certainly suggests a flat battery. The clicking noise is actually the starter motor - there’s enough power to engage the starter motor, but not enough power to actually fire up the engine. 

You ought to try a few things when this is your issue - namely, buying a charger and allowing the battery to charge up for a few hours. This should solve your issue. If it keeps happening you need to replace the battery as it’s reached the end of it’s useful life.

If you’re sure it’s the battery and not the alternator, you could try bump starting the car - stick the car in second gear, get someone to give it a push and slowly bring the clutch up to the biting point when you get to about 10mph. The engine should start, and the alternator should start charging the battery. Be aware that you’ll need to bump start the car again if your battery won’t hold a charge, so I would suggest if you do this, your next stop should be to the motor factors to buy a new battery.

No ignition

If you’ve got no ignition at all, it’s likely your battery is completely flat. Whether this is an issue with the alternator or the battery is not clear yet, but if this is your issue you need to go and buy a jump pack or a battery charger and fully charge the battery. If your car still won’t start, the battery is likely completely dead and needs to be replaced. If you can get the car running, but after a few minutes it dies, this suggests your alternator is bad and needs replacing.

Whining noise or loud click when you turn the key

This suggests your starter motor is faulty. A whirring noise or a click can suggest that the starter is working, but not engaging properly. This could be for any number of reasons - possibly the solenoid switch is stiff or faulty, or there is a faulty electrical connection somewhere that is preventing the starter from engaging properly. 

You could try replacing the starter, but it could be an issue with the electrical supply to the starter motor. Check the battery also - check the terminals are not corroded, and check that the battery and the alternator are also functional, as this can cause issues with other electrical components in the car.

Immobiliser issue

This is in all honesty less likely to be your problem because if it was, you’d get a warning on the dash for an “immobiliser fault”. Your car is fitted with an immobiliser which prevents the engine from starting unless the correct key is used. What can happen, particularly if you’ve had to have your key replaced and then you’ve tried to use maybe the spare key, is that the immobiliser will not allow the engine to start. It will crank, but it won’t fire. In this case, you have to use the programmed key for the car in order to start it.

If you are using the right key, and your car won’t start and it’s telling you you have an immobiliser fault, it could be that the battery in your key is flat. Try replacing the key battery and starting the car again. If the car still won’t start and you get an immobiliser warning on the dashboard, it’s likely your immobiliser is faulty as it’s failing to recognise your key. You’ll need a mechanic to come out and look at the car for you in order to resolve this issue unfortunately. 

Adblue issues (diesel)

You’ll likely be aware that this is your issue, but it’s worth mentioning this as many people don’t realise what Adblue is and what it does. Adblue is an additive that’s injected into your exhaust in order to reduce the harmful gases that are expelled as a result of running the engine. Adblue is required on any Euro 6 (post 2015) diesel car. It’s not (to the best of my knowledge) fitted to any petrol cars.

The thing with Adblue is that it’s a liquid that’s held in a tank in your car, and of course, eventually that liquid will run out. Your car’s computer will actually prevent the engine from starting if you’ve run out of Adblue. Now, you do get plenty of warning that this is going to happen - you’ll start to see a series of messages along the lines of “Adblue level low, starting prevented in 200 miles” which should give you the message that you need to go and find some Adblue. However, if you’ve left it to the point where there is no Adblue in the tank and your car won’t start, you need to go and find some Adblue and put it in your car. 

If you’ve never filled up with Adblue before, it’s available from most petrol station forecourts and motor factors in large plastic bottles. Some petrol stations have it available straight from the pump. Your Adblue tank is located either beside or under the diesel fuel filler cap on your Fiesta - so it’s easy to find and easy to fill up. If you’re using a plastic bottle, it should come with a funnel attachment so you don’t spill any Adblue - but if not, use a funnel, as Adblue can stain surfaces.

Engine cranks but won’t start

This is usually one of two things - either a fuel issue or a fault with the engine itself. 

Fuel

If the engine cranks over but won’t start, it’s possible that fuel is not getting to the engine. There are a few culprits that could be causing this problem in your fuel system - but mainly you’ll be looking at the fuel injectors and the fuel pump. What I would suggest is that you turn the ignition off, and then turn it back on again. You should hear a whine coming from the rear of your car - that’s the fuel pump, priming the system with fuel and building fuel pressure so that when you turn the engine over, you have fuel at the injectors ready for the engine to fire up. If you don’t hear that whine, it’s possible the fuel pump has gone bad and will need to be replaced.

Additionally this could be a fuel injector issue - over time the fuel injector nozzles can become clogged with debris and carbon build-up, and if the holes in the injectors are clogged up it can mean that the engine doesn’t receive enough fuel in order to start. Unfortunately injectors are expensive to diagnose and replace, so if this is your problem, be prepared for a sizeable bill. The good news is that if either of these two issues is what’s causing your car not to start, they should throw up a fault code which you can read with an OBD reader. I recommend every car owner gets a cheap OBD reader for situations like this.

Engine problems

This could be a couple of things - bad spark plugs or poor compression spring to mind. If your spark plugs haven’t been replaced in a long time, you may find that they have gone bad and need to be replaced. A number of things can cause this, including carbon build-up in the engine or possibly you might have oil leaking into the engine which can prevent starting. Additionally, your issue might be one of compression - and engine with low compression won’t start easily if at all, and you might need to look at replacing the valve stem seals or piston rings to restore compression to the engine.

These are pretty extreme examples and are unlikely to be your issue, but if you’ve tried everything else, you may have to go down the route of diagnosing a potential fuel or engine problem. I would advise you get a mechanic to come out and look at your car to diagnose any further.

We've written a lot of content on the Ford Fiesta - so if you're interested in learning more or you're having other problems, check out some more of our articles below.

Engine Servicing

An engine service consists of at least an oil and oil filter change. This is referred to as a minor service. If you go for a full service or a major service (which you should be doing every two years) it consists of a fuel filter, air filter and pollen filter change. You’ll also have your spark plugs changed if you run a petrol Fiesta.

In this article we look at the servicing intervals for each engine part, when they should be changed and (if applicable) at what mileage. However, be aware that the part is due a service irrespective of which milestone you hit. For example, if the service interval for a particular part is 10,000 miles or one year, and after a year you’ve only done 5,000 miles, you still need to change that part - the guidance is whichever is soonest, not when you hit both.

Petrol engines

Diesel engines

Later models of Fiesta (2017+) may be on a two-year servicing schedule, which means you should extend the relevant interval from 12,500 miles to 18,000 miles and one year to two years.

It’s worth mentioning that if your Fiesta is subject to what’s called “abnormal conditions” you must have your car serviced more often. If any of the following apply to you, you must halve the service intervals above - so 12,000 miles becomes 6,000 miles and one year becomes six months:

• If your vehicle is used as a taxi, driving school or delivery vehicle

• If you live in a country where fuel quality is poor

• If you live in a country that has a dusty environment

• Constant slow speed driving under 12mph

• Start-stop driving and short journeys where the engine does not warm up fully

Timing belt 

To my knowledge all modern Fiestas are fitted with a timing belt. Irrespective of whether you drive a petrol or a diesel, the timing belt interval given by Ford is the same - 144,000 miles or ten years. Most of these engines have dry timing belts - meaning that they don’t run in oil. I know of only one engine fitted to the Fiesta that has a wet timing belt that runs in engine oil, and that is the 1.0L EcoBoost engine. 

I really think that a wet timing belt is a terrible idea and I’ve had a lot of experience replacing these on Peugeot petrol engines, where a wet belt is a significant issue because the engine oil causes the belt to disintegrate and then block up the oil pickup, which can starve the engine of oil. The 1.0L EcoBoost is no exception to this - and I would highly suggest that if you have this engine and want to maintain your car, you get the belt changed at half the recommended interval - 72,000 miles or five years.

When you get the belt changed is ultimately down to you and your financial situation - just be aware that a timing belt change is likely to cost you at least £500, but the cost of a new engine will be much greater. All Ford Fiestas are fitted with interference engines so if the timing belt breaks, it will cause damage (likely terminal) to your engine, and you will need to replace the engine in your car.

Personally, if it was my car, I’d be replacing any wet timing belt at a maximum of 72,000 miles and any dry timing belt at a maximum of 100,000 miles.

Brakes

Servicing the brakes on a Ford Fiesta has no set service interval - you change them when they need changing. When your brakes need changing is largely dependent on your driving style - if you’re often braking harshly and aggressively you will find you get less wear out of a set of pads and discs than if you use lots of engine braking and you drive more gently.

Pads and discs

I would say you’re likely to get between 30,000 to 40,000 miles out of a set of brake pads on a Ford Fiesta, depending on how you drive. You’ll notice when it’s time for a new set of pads because you’ll hear the metal grinding against the front discs - this is a sign that all the friction material has worn away, and your pads need to be replaced.

Brake discs should last you between 50,000 to 60,000 miles. The Fiesta is fitted with brake discs at the front on all models, and only on some at the back - some of the lower trim models have brake drums at the back. These very rarely need replacing and will usually just need servicing at a similar interval as if you’d change brake discs. I’d suggest you plan for a brake service at around 60,000 miles if you want to keep your brakes in tip-top condition. 

Brake fluid

This should be replaced every two years as part of a full service regardless of mileage. This is because brake fluid is hygroscopic (it absorbs water) and therefore becomes less effective over time.

Battery

A battery ought to be changed out when required and not at any kind of set interval but you should get at least four years out of a battery. If you have a start-stop model of Fiesta you may need a higher-powered battery, so just double check you’re buying the right one. 

Clutch

A clutch, again, has no set service interval. It depends entirely on how you drive your car. You may get anywhere from 30,000 miles to 100,000 miles out of a clutch depending on how you drive. You might even get more if you do a lot of motorway driving. My advice with the clutch is to change it as soon as you notice any kind of problems with it - a burning smell, slipping clutch, problems selecting gear, etc. Don’t leave it to chance or you could end up on the side of the road with no drive.

Another thing you can do to extend the life of your clutch is to ensure that you take your foot off the clutch when stationary in traffic - put your car into neutral and take your foot completely off the pedal. Keeping the clutch in puts excessive wear on your release bearing and if this shatters, you will be left with no drive.

Injectors

Fuel injection on the Fiesta tends to be pretty reliable - I’m not aware of any notorious fuel injection problems affecting any of the engines. Again, this depends on the quality of the fuel you use, the kind of driving you do and how often the car has been serviced. I would not expect a normal Fiesta owner to see fuel injection problems until well past the 100,000 mile mark. The thing about injectors is that when one fails, you often have to replace all the injectors at once - which could mean a big bill, as fuel injectors are not cheap.

Tyres

Tyre servicing depends again on the kind of driving you do and the brand you buy. Cheaper models of tyre like Landsail may only last up to 12,000 miles before they need to be replaced, whereas good tyres like Dunlop or Goodyear might last up to 30,000 miles.

Additionally the type of driving you do influences this - lots of motorway driving makes for even wear, and if you rotate your tyres, you’ll get even longer out of them. I would strongly suggest buying the best tyres you can afford. Tyres are the only thing that separate you from the road, and therefore it makes sense to spend as much money on them as you can afford.

Change your tyres when there’s around 3mm of tread left and check your tyres regularly for cuts, punctures or bulges. Check the pressures regularly to make sure they are correct. Here’s how to check your Fiesta tyre pressures.

We’ve written a number of articles on the Ford Fiesta - so if you’re looking at buying one, or you’re having problems with your car, check out some of the other articles we’ve written. 

Blown fuse

This is the first thing you should check when facing any kind of electrical problem in your car. The fuse for the heater blower in the Ford Fiesta is fuse F4 and this is a 30A fuse. Generally a fuse blowing could happen for a number of reasons, but fundamentally a fuse blows when the component it handles draws a stronger current than it is designed to. The fuse is a failsafe to ensure that the wiring doesn’t melt.

The Fiesta has two fuseboxes - one in the glove compartment and one in the engine bay, to the right hand side near the battery. The blower motor fuse is in the engine bay fusebox and not the passenger fusebox. You can find a fusebox diagram in your Haynes manual, or various places online. Make sure you’re replacing the right fuse with one of the same amperage.

Sometimes a fuse can fail and visually look OK - so whether it looks good or not, you should replace this fuse as a first step. They can be had very cheaply on Amazon, so I would recommend replacing it first without doing any more fault-finding. If it doesn’t fix your problem, you can move on to other possibilities.

Don’t renew a fuse more than once. What this means is that if you replace the fuse and it fixes your problem, and then the heater blower fails again, don’t just keep replacing fuses. If this happens it means there’s something wrong with your electrical system and you’ll need to have your car looked at by an auto electrician.

Heater resistor pack broken

If you replace the fuse and your heater blower is still broken, then this is most likely your problem. This is a really common fault not just on the Fiesta but on other cars as well. Typically, the fault people complain of is that the blower motor actually does work, but it only works on full power. It’s either on, or it’s off, and any of the lower settings don’t work at all. 

The reason for this is that the heater resistor pack has burnt out. The heater resistor pack controls the current provided to the fan. If you set your heater or air con to low, the resistor adds resistance to the circuit to stop the fan spinning too fast. If you turn the air con up, the resistor reduces the amount of resistance in the circuit to allow the fan to spin faster.

The reason the blower still works on full is because in this case there’s no resistance being added to the circuit - the full amount of current is being provided to the fan and therefore it doesn’t matter whether the resistor pack works or not. This is why your air con or heater will work on full speed, but not any of the lower settings.

The heater resistor pack is located in the lower passenger footwell. You will need to unclip some of the interior trim to get to it, near to the glovebox. It’s a fiddly job but one that can be easily done by anyone even remotely familiar with repairing things in about an hour on your driveway. Heater resistor packs can be had on eBay or Amazon for not much money. You will probably pay about £30 for a genuine part from Ford if you want to go down that route.

Normally I would say go for the genuine part, but to be honest, I did this job not too long ago on my brother’s Fiesta, and we used an eBay knock-off and it still works fine - I borrowed his Fiesta a few weeks ago while my car was in having it’s MOT and the heater blew lovely and warm on all the settings!

Low engine coolant level

This generally only occurs if you’re having problems with the heater, but not the air con. If your air conditioning blows nice and cold, but your heater doesn’t work, this can indicate a problem with the engine coolant.

The way the heater works in the Fiesta is that engine coolant is pumped through the engine and around the heater core, which provides heat to the cabin which is then blown through the vents through the heater fan. However, if the coolant is not warm enough, you won’t get any heat - this is why you don’t get any heat in the cabin until the engine has had time to warm up.

If your coolant level is too low, hot fluid doesn’t make it to the heater core. Therefore, you don’t get any heat in the cabin. In order to mitigate this you should open the bonnet and check your Fiesta’s coolant expansion tank level (you should be doing this regularly anyway) to ensure it’s between the MIN and MAX lines. If it’s any lower than the MIN line, this doesn’t necessarily mean you need a top up - it’s fine for it to be ever so slightly below, but any more and you should add coolant. If you can’t see any coolant in the tank at all, you definitely need a top-up.

This can occur also if you’ve just had a job done on the car that requires the coolant to be changed - such as if you’ve had the water pump changed. If the system hasn’t been bled properly it’s possible that an air lock has been introduced - for which the cooling system will need to be bled up. 

We’ve written a full guide on Ford Fiesta engine coolant which you may want to check out if this is your issue.

Bad thermostat

This is pretty rare, and in all honesty you’re going to have other, more worrying problems to deal with if your engine thermostat is broken, but all the same it can cause problems with the heater blower not working. A faulty thermostat may not open up to let the coolant flow through it, and if this is the case, the heater core won’t be getting warm coolant flowing through it and therefore you won’t be getting any heat in the cabin.

If the thermostat is stuck open, it may cause the engine’s temperature to stay low. If the thermostat is the problem, your engine won’t be able to regulate its own temperature and the engine may start to overheat - which you will notice either on the gauge on the dashboard, or you may notice a distinct burning smell. If this does happen, it’s time to pull over and not drive the car until the issue is fixed, in case you cause terminal damage to your engine.

We’ve written a number of articles on the Ford Fiesta, which you should check out if you’re having other problems or thinking of buying this car.

Knowing which engine you have 

The engine you have fitted to your car is more important than the car itself when it comes to choosing your engine oil. Different generations of the Fiesta were fitted with different types of engine, so you need to ensure that you know which engine you have in order to choose the right oil. It’s not enough to say for example “I have a 2015 Fiesta, so it needs this kind of oil” - you need to know which engine you have, irrespective of the car or model year.

Let’s look at why we need engine oil and why we need to change it. Engine oil serves two purposes. Mainly, your engine oil lubricates parts inside your engine. If it didn’t, the valves and pistons would expand due to the heat and friction generated by their movement and your engine would weld itself together. Engine oil also takes some of the heat away from the moving parts as well as providing lubrication (although this process is largely taken care of by your cooling system.)

Engine oil over time becomes contaminated with impurities, which can reduce its ability to lubricate the moving parts in your engine. Leave it too long before an oil change and you’ll find the oil has turned to a thick, viscous sludge. This is why it’s important to change out your oil on a regular basis - generally every 10,000 miles or every year.   

Grade and Brand

A lot is made of oil brands, and most of it is marketing jargon. For example, certain oils claim they have cleaning agents or are formulated to provide extra protection to the inside of your engine. This may well be the case, but in terms of any impact you might actually notice on your car’s performance, this is likely to be negligible.

As a mechanic of over ten years who’s had to do some well overdue oil changes on customer’s cars, I would say that it’s far better to use a cheap oil and change it out more frequently than it is to use expensive oil and not change it as often. If you want to protect the internals of your engine better, then it may make sense to use a premium oil like Shell, Castrol or Mobil, but irrespective of how good the oil you’ve used is, it still needs to be changed at regular intervals.

The grade of oil you need to use in your car is also very important. The grade refers to how thick or viscous the oil is. You will see figures such as 5W-30 - you don’t really need to know exactly what this means in order to change your oil, just that it’s thicker than an 0W-20 oil and thinner than a 10W-40 oil. In all honesty don’t worry too much about this - just make absolutely sure you match the oil grade your car needs to the oil you buy - if your car needs 5W-30, then buy 5W-30 - don’t put anything else in your car.

The correct oil for your Ford Fiesta

In this section we’ve gone through every engine fitted to the Mk7 and Mk8 Ford Fiesta. If you don’t know what engine you have, you should look in your owner’s manual. If you can’t find any information on this in your owner’s manual, call your local Ford dealer and give them your registration - they will be able to tell you which engine you have.

Very important - we’re only talking here about engines fitted to the Mk7 Fiesta and later. We have not covered the Mk6 Fiesta, or any Fiesta prior to 2008. For absolute clarity, the two cars we refer to here look like this:

If your Fiesta looks anything like this, it’s not covered here. However, a similar engine may be fitted to it, so make sure you check your owner’s manual for the type of oil you need. If, for example, you need 5W-30, any of the recommendations for 5W-30 oil here will be fine.

Petrol - 2009 onwards

1.0L Duratec I3 (2013 - onwards) 

Grade: 5W-20

Recommended Brand: Castrol MAGNATEC Professional 5W-20 Engine Oil

1.0L EcoBoost (2013 - onwards) 

Grade: 5W-20

Recommended Brand: Castrol MAGNATEC Professional 5W-20 Engine Oil

1.5L Duratec (2013 - onwards) 

Grade: 5W-20

Recommended Brand: Castrol MAGNATEC Professional 5W-20 Engine Oil

1.6L EcoBoost (2013 - onwards) 

Grade: 5W-20

Recommended Brand: Castrol MAGNATEC Professional 5W-20 Engine Oil

1.25L Duratec (2008 - onwards) 

Grade: 5W-30

Recommended Brand: Castrol MAGNATEC Professional A5 5W-30 Motor Oil

1.4L Duratec (2008 - onwards) 

Grade: 5W-30

Recommended Brand: Castrol MAGNATEC Professional A5 5W-30 Motor Oil

1.6L Duratec (2010 - onwards) 

Grade: 5W-30

Recommended Brand: Castrol Magnatec Professional A5 5W-30 Motor Oil

Diesel - 2009 onwards

1.5L Duratorq TDCi (2013 - onwards) 

Grade: 0W-30

Recommended Brand: Shell Helix Ultra ECT C2 C3 0W-30 Engine Oil

1.4L Duratorq TDCi (2008 - onwards) 

Grade: 5W-30

Recommended Brand: Mobil Super 3000 X1 Formula FE 5W-30 Engine Oil

1.6L Duratorq TDCi (2008 - onwards) 

Grade: 5W-30

Recommended Brand: Mobil Super 3000 X1 Formula FE 5W-30 Engine Oil

Frequently asked questions about Ford Fiesta engine oil

Will the wrong oil damage my engine?

The answer to this is really that it depends. If you put 5W-30 in instead of 5W-20, it’s highly unlikely to cause any lasting damage. However, if you put an oil that’s far too thin or too thick for your car, you are likely to cause some damage - interior metal parts of the engine may shear, which can cause additional noise and may also leave metal shavings in the oil, which can cause additional damage as they move around the engine with the oil.

Ultimately the problem is one of lubrication - and if the engine is not lubricated properly, it will likely overheat. If the oil is too thin or too thick, it won’t lubricate properly and won’t be able to regulate temperature inside the engine, causing damage.

Always follow the manufacturer’s specifications and put the right oil in your car - don’t be tempted to put the wrong grade just because you have it lying around. In the grand scheme of things, oil isn’t expensive - the oil for your Fiesta is unlikely to cost you more than £50 for a bottle of the correct stuff.

How much engine oil does the Ford Fiesta take?

Generally the Ford Fiesta takes between four and five litres, depending on the type of engine you have fitted to your car. I would suggest that you not really worry about this too much and just check that the level on the dipstick is between the minimum and maximum. A 5L bottle of oil will be more than enough for you to perform a full oil change on your Ford Fiesta.

What is the Ford Fiesta oil service interval?

Generally your Ford Fiesta should have an oil and filter change every 10,000 miles or twelve months, whichever is sooner. This applies in either circumstance - for example, if you’ve done 10,000 miles in six months, you shouldn't wait until 12 months before you get a service. You’ve hit 10,000 miles, so you should get your car serviced. Likewise, if it’s been twelve months since your last service and you haven’t hit 10,000 miles, you should still get your car serviced.

Some of the later engines, such as the 1L EcoBoost or 1.5L Duratorq diesel have extended service intervals of up to two years or 18,000 miles. I would strongly recommend servicing more often than this to extend the life of your engine. Make sure you check your owner’s manual for your car’s recommended service interval.

We've written a number of articles about the Ford Fiesta - so check out some of our most popular articles below!

What makes a good first car?

Let’s look at the typical first-time driver in the UK. They’re probably about 17 or 18, have just passed their driving test and are eager to get on the road with their friends and go for a road trip. What they want and what their parents might be willing to buy them, however, are two different things.

There are also those who pass later in life, and need a reliable, economical car for commuting, taking their children to school, etc. Therefore, we need to look at a number of things to determine whether the Ford Fiesta makes a good first car:

• Reliability

• Fuel economy

• Insurance cost (very expensive for new drivers)

• How easy it is to drive

• How much it costs to buy and maintain

We also look at common pitfalls and problems you may experience on the Fiesta. If any of these are deal-breakers, you might want to consider another model. 

However, it’s our opinion that for the majority of cases, the Fiesta is actually one of the best first cars you can buy. Here’s why.

Why the Ford Fiesta is a great first car

Low insurance group

The Fiesta is probably one of the cheapest cars to insure that you can buy today. The absolute abundance of parts available means that they’re cheap to repair and as such are cheap to insure. Insurance groups start at 2, and while they can go all the way up to 16 for a fully spec-ed ST-line and probably even more for the Fiesta ST.

In fact, we put in a standard insurance quote for a 17 year old male who’s just passed his test, is a student living at home in Cardiff, UK and plans to do around 6,000 miles a year in a 2014 Ford Fiesta.

The cheapest premium we found was £1,929.97 per year,  or £160 per month. This compares to £2,030.78 for an equivalent spec Peugeot 208. So if you’re on a budget, the Fiesta is a great car to choose as it’s cheaper to insure than some of the alternatives in the market.

Small and easy to maneuver 

The Fiesta is a really fun car to drive because it’s so small and easy to maneuver. There’s a reason it’s a really popular learner car, and you’ll very often see a Ford Fiesta with L plates on the front and rear. It has light and accurate steering with a small turning circle, and the visibility around the car is among the best in its class.

In terms of finding a comfortable position, the Fiesta seats are such that it’s very easy to find a good driving position. The clutch doesn’t bite too high and isn’t too heavy, meaning it’s easy to navigate for someone who’s just learnt clutch control. Most models of Fiesta also have hill hold assist - perfect for those moments where your muscle memory isn’t quite there yet!

The Fiesta, being so small and maneuverable, is very easy to park, too - making it perfect for someone practicing their parallel or bay parking.

Cheap to run and maintain

The Fiesta is not an expensive car to maintain. Parts costs are minimal thanks to the number of Fiestas there are out there on the road, and you’ll never be in a situation where you’re waiting days and days for parts - most motor factors will have nearly all the common parts you’d need for a Fiesta in stock.

In fact (not that you’re thinking you’ll need to do any of these repairs on a car you just bought, but it’s worth mentioning) we’ve priced up some common repairs on the Fiesta, and what could be massively expensive jobs on other cars turn out to be slightly less so on the Fiesta.

Average exhaust replacement cost: £900

Average tyre replacement cost: £100 per tyre for a premium tyre

Average clutch replacement cost: around £500

Average service cost: £149

Economical on fuel

The Fiesta is a fuel efficient little car. You can expect up to 51mpg combined from the 1.0L EcoBoost engine, although it goes without saying that you can expect better mileage from this engine in the city rather than on the motorway. If you do a lot of motorway driving, the Fiesta diesel might be a better bet - the 1.4L TDCi diesel engine will return up to 70mpg on a long motorway run. 

The Fiesta has quite a small fuel tank at 42L, meaning the cost to fill it up to the brim with petrol (as of the time of writing when a litre of petrol was roughly £1.42) it would cost £59.64 to fill it up - which is very competitive. Be aware thought that you’re likely to be visiting the petrol station more often than if you ran a vehicle with a bigger fuel tank, such as the Peugeot 208 which has a 50L tank. 

Safe to drive

Your parents will like this section - both the 2013 model and the 2017 model of the Fiesta scored a 5 star Euro NCAP safety rating - making the Fiesta among the safest cars in its class. The Fiesta is fitted with both driver and passenger front airbags and belt pretensioners, as well as side head, chest and pelvis airbags. Higher-spec’ed models even come with speed assistance and lane assist.

Why you might want to avoid a Fiesta for your first car

It’s the most stolen car in the UK

With popularity, comes unfortunately the heightened risk that your car might be stolen or stripped for parts. The sad reality is that even though the top 10 most stolen cars in the UK is usually filled with high-end, luxury cars, the Fiesta takes the top spot, with 5724 stolen in 2022.

The reason for this is obviously because they’re so popular, it’s easier for thieves to sell on the stolen car, or to strip it for parts to put onto other vehicles. If you take sensible precautions, such as making sure your car stays locked, and watching where you park at night, you shouldn’t worry about this too much, but unfortunately the fact of the matter is that a Fiesta is more likely to be stolen than say, a Renault Clio or a Citroen DS3.

It can be expensive

Because the Fiesta is so popular, it does hold its value well. This can be either a good or a bad thing - if you buy a Fiesta now and sell it in three years, you’ll likely get a greater proportion of the vehicle’s value back than if you bought, say, a Vauxhall Corsa. However, this means that you’re also likely to pay much more for it to begin with. 

To demonstrate this, we looked at two types of car - a Fiesta with a 1.0L EcoBoost engine from 2014, and a Peugeot 208 with the 1.0L PureTech engine from 2014. Very similar spec’ed cars, and we looked for examples with around 50,000 miles on the clock. Simply put, exactly the kind of car that a first car owner would be looking for.

First we looked at purchase price. You’d pay an average of £7,000 for the Fiesta at the time of writing. Some examples were going for as much as £8,000. The Peugeot, however, fared much cheaper - around £5,900 average. 

The resale value, however, does tip in the Fiesta’s favour - as we put examples of both cars into a popular car buying website and came up with a buyback price of £4,000 with 70,000 miles on it, versus £3,000 for the Peugeot with the same mileage.  

It’s actually quite dull

Honestly, this is a matter of opinion, and it may be that just because there’s so many on the road that the Fiesta kind of blends in, but I don’t think the Fiesta is a particularly exciting car, both to drive and to look at. The styling has become so commonplace that it’s hard to get excited about how the Fiesta looks, and the interior, while pleasant enough, is just a little bit boring.

I’d much rather drive around in a Polo or a Clio because they are interesting to look at and they’re not so commonplace that they blend in - and the interior on both is a really nice place to be - in my opinion, more so than the Fiesta.

This is a matter of opinion though, and you may disagree. 

Alternatives to the Ford Fiesta you may want to look at

We’ve spoken at length about alternatives to the Fiesta - so let’s discuss a few.

Whatever you choose, good luck out there on the road!

References

Ford Fiesta - the most stolen car in the UK in 2022 - https://www.rivervaleleasing.co.uk/blog/posts/uks-most-stolen-cars-update-rivervale-leasing

Ford Fiesta - 1.54m on the road as of 2021 - https://motorway.co.uk/sell-my-car/guides/most-popular-cars-in-the-uk

We've written a number of articles on the Ford Fiesta if you're looking for more information on the car.

How to find the tyre size on your Ford Fiesta

Like most cars in its class, the Fiesta was fitted with a range of either 15 inch, 16 inch, 17 inch or 18 inch wheels. The size of the wheels dictates the size of tyre you need to put on your car. 

You also need to consider other things, however - for example, the width and height of the tyre because this affects how your vehicle looks on the road, as well as the ride comfort. You may want thinner, run-flat tyres for a sportier look, but this may lead to a less comfortable ride.

On each of your tyres, you have a number like this: 195/55/R15.

This is usually on the tyre's sidewall, as below:

This tells you the size of your tyres.

So let’s look at a basic 2014 Ford Fiesta that came with 15” alloys, and is fitted with 185/55/R15 tyres.

185 = the tyre’s width

55 = the tyre’s height

R15 = the tyre’s diameter (which is the same size as the wheel - the “15” here refers to the 15” wheels the car was fitted with.)

It’s not unusual to have cars with different tyre sizes front and back, but you should find that most Fiestas have the same. The tyres on an axle are always the same - if you put different sized wheels on an axle the wheels will turn at different speeds which causes problems for handling.

Ford Fiesta tyre pressures

Below we have collated as much information about the different wheel sizes fitted to the Ford Fiesta from around 2002 onwards. However, if your car is missing here, follow the information card in the passenger door shut.

If we have missed your tyre size, please let us know and we will add it in.

Just so you’re absolutely clear, the different versions of the Fiesta are pictured below - whichever one looks most like your car is the one you should follow in the chart.

How to check the tyre pressures on your Ford Fiesta

Tyre pressures are easy to check. If you don’t know how, make sure you have a tyre pressure gauge - you can either get a digital one or an analaogue one (I would recommend a digital one) and they’re available very cheaply from eBay or Amazon.

Open the tyre valve by unscrewing the cap. Look after the cap - don’t lose it. Push the pressure gauge onto the valve (you may need to check that the gauge is set to a certain unit of measurement first, either bar, PSI or kPa.) Make a note of the reading. 

If the reading is too low, inflate the tyre - if it’s too high, deflate the tyre by pushing the gauge onto the valve until you hear a hissing sound. Make sure you do another reading before you finish to ensure the tyre is at the correct pressure.

Common questions about Ford Fiesta tyres

What happens if tyre pressure is too high?

Overinflation can cause a number of problems - mainly uneven wear. What happens is that the excess air causes the tread to push out and this wears out first. This then causes both an uncomfortable ride, as well as you needing to replace your tyres more often due to quicker wear. 

An overinflated tyre is significantly more likely to burst, and when a tyre does burst it’s very difficult to maintain control of your car. Additionally if you do experience a tyre bursting, your ABS will likely not be functional and it will be difficult to safely bring your car to a stop.

Overinflated tyres are also more likely to become damaged from potholes, cracks and other debris in the road, and this is due to the fact that the tyre is more rigid and stiff than it otherwise would be, and isn’t able to flex around road objects and obstacles.

Should front and rear tyre pressure be the same?

Sometimes yes, and sometimes no. Often on front wheel drive cars like the Fiesta the front tyres are inflated to a higher pressure than the rear tyres. However, if the chart above says that both front and rear pressures should be the same, then you should run them at the same pressure.

Do tyres last longer with higher pressure?

No. There is no such thing as over-inflating your tyres to make them last longer - in fact, as we’ve said, overinflation is significantly more likely to lead to increased tyre wear, potential bursting and an uncomfortable ride.

How do you know when Ford Fiesta tyres need replacement?

Tyres should be replaced if they are damaged by way of a cut or bulge along the tyre, if they are cracking or perishing due to age, or if they have worn down to the point where the tread is nearly at the legal limit. Running a tyre which has worn down most of the tread is dangerous and can lead to you having an accident - not to mention that it’s an MOT failure. 

We recommend ProTyre for having your Ford Fiesta tyres replaced - they stock a number of different brands and models so there’s definitely something to suit your needs and budget.

We’ve written a lot of content about the Ford Fiesta, so if you’re experiencing problems or need advice, check out some of our other articles!

What does engine coolant do?

As we’ve mentioned, engine coolant does what the name might suggest - it cools your engine. It’s not just as simple as that, however. Engine coolant is actually designed to regulate the temperature of your engine during extreme temperatures - hot and cold. This is why coolant is sometimes called antifreeze.

Engine coolant is usually mixed with water (although you can buy pre-mixed coolants) and this liquid is pumped through your car’s engine in order to regulate and create an optimal temperature during hot or cold. In short, it stops your car engine from overheating as well as freezing.

Coolant often comes in different colours, and while this used to be an indicator of the chemical makeup of the coolant, it no longer is - nowadays manufacturers have no need to make a certain type of coolant a certain colour, so it’s difficult for you to know exactly what coolant is in your vehicle by the colour alone. 

Be very careful with this, because some people still think the coolant colour dictates the type of coolant; for example, you likely have pink coolant in your Ford Fiesta - some people will just buy the first pink coolant bottle they see without looking at the chemical makeup. This can cause problems.

A guide to the correct coolant for your Ford Fiesta

Coolant generally comes in one of three different types - IAT (inorganic additive technology), OAT (organic additive technology) and HOAT (hybrid organic acid technology). IAT was generally used in older vehicles - so it won’t be applicable for your modern Ford Fiesta. OAT is generally pink, blue or orange. HOAT is a hybrid of both. 

Generally, modern Ford Fiestas will use a pink OAT coolant. Any OAT coolant will be fine - you do not need to purchase the coolant from Ford directly, and most motor factors or motor stores such as Halfords will always have this particular type of coolant in stock.

Checking and adding coolant to your car

To check your coolant, you need to open the bonnet. Your Ford Fiesta has a coolant expansion tank, which is an oblong shaped box on the left hand side of the engine. This expansion tank (sometimes called a header tank) will contain a varying level of coolant depending on the temperature of the engine. It will have a MIN and MAX line. 

In general, if the level is anywhere below the MAX line and even just a little bit below the MIN line, you do not need to top up your coolant. 

If the tank is dry, your coolant needs topping up. If your Fiesta has done over 100,000 miles, I would suggest draining and refilling the coolant as it is likely to need replacing. 

In order to add coolant, I would suggest that you leave the car until the engine is cold. The reason for this (and most coolant tanks will have a warning to this effect) is because you will get burned - the cooling system is pressurised and you will get a face full of boiling water. Engines take longer than you might think to cool down, so I’d suggest leaving it at least three or four hours after driving before trying to open the tank.

In order to top the tank up, simply use a funnel and pour the coolant in. If the tank is dry, the cooling system may need to be bled up, which we will discuss in the next section.

I’ve filled up my tank, but after driving, the tank is empty?

After filling the tank, you should leave the engine running and if possible take the car for a test drive. This will show you whether you have an air lock or not. Air locks are common when changing coolant and this is where air gets into the cooling system, preventing the header tank from filling up.

If this is your problem, you need to bleed up the system to get rid of any air. There are two ways of doing this on the Ford Fiesta.

Firstly, open the expansion tank and let the car idle for a few minutes until it warms up. Set the heater control inside as hot as it will go. When doing this you may notice the level in the expansion tank (if it isn’t completely dry) drop - this is perfectly normal and shouldn’t worry you, it’s as a result of the thermostat opening when the engine gets to temperature.

Watch the header tank, and eventually lots of bubbles will come out of the coolant. This is the cooling system bleeding itself up. Do not be tempted to touch anything inside the engine while this is happening - you will likely burn yourself. 

If this doesn’t work, you can try to bleed the system up another way - fill the tank with coolant and have the engine running. There is a thin pipe that clips to the radiator. You should pinch the two clips together, and pour coolant in until it starts to come out of the hole where the pipe is. This is very fiddly and sometimes it can be difficult to get all the air out - so my advice as a mechanic would be to try the first step a few times until your coolant level stays where you filled it and doesn’t drop if you leave the car overnight.

This is a common issue, and as a mechanic I have had to bleed up a car’s cooling system loads of times - particularly after we’ve done a timing belt and water pump change, for example. If you’re struggling, you might want to get a garage just to check your car over. Any mechanic will know how to get rid of an air lock.

Is it OK to mix coolant?

You should never mix different types of coolant, unless you are using a universal coolant which specifically says that it’s OK to mix with other coolant types. Mixing coolant that is not supposed to be mixed can result in an unwanted chemical reaction between the two coolants that can cause the coolant itself to become sludgy and viscous, which won’t be able to flow through your cooling system properly and will cause damage to your engine.

If you’re unsure about which type of coolant to put in your car, consult a local garage - however the Ford Fiesta uses an OAT coolant, so if you’re just topping up your coolant tank, you won’t have any issue using any OAT coolant to do this.

Can I use water instead of coolant?

There are two situations where you might want to use water instead of coolant. One is if you are changing your Fiesta’s water pump, and you just want to ensure that there are no leaks before you build the car back up. There’s no point using good coolant for this because you’ll need to flush it out later. 

The second situation is where you have a coolant leak and you are driving - where you might not have coolant available. In this case it’s OK to fill the header tank with water just to get you to a garage - it is not a permanent fix and as soon as your cooling system is repaired you should use proper coolant.

Some say that it’s OK to use water in the summer months and switch to antifreeze in the winter months - this is not recommended, as antifreeze is not just to stop the engine freezing up, it’s also to keep the engine cool when it gets hot, which coolant will do a much better job of than water.

Can you mix old and new coolant?

Generally, yes, it’s fine to mix old and new coolant in your Ford Fiesta providing the old coolant isn’t past it - the original coolant will last anywhere between 75k - 100k miles so as long as you’re before that you are fine just to top it up. If your coolant is a rusty brown colour, you might consider draining and refilling the coolant rather than just topping it up.

Check out some more of our articles on the Ford Fiesta!

Are Ford Fiesta gearboxes prone to failure?

Fiesta gearboxes are no more or no less likely to need replacement than any other model of car (with the exception of the PowerShift automatic gearboxes, over which Ford is engaged in an ongoing court case) – but like anything mechanical, they can go wrong. You may be noticing the symptoms of gearbox failure – clunking when changing gear, failure to engage gear properly, crunching when engaging gear, etc. 

Taking a car to the dealer for work is cost prohibitive for most of us, especially if the car isn’t under warranty, so we’re going to run through a few different scenarios in this article, including fitting the gearbox yourself or getting an independent garage or mobile mechanic to do it for you. For complete clarity, in this article we are only going to touch on gearbox replacement costs for the Mark 6 and Mark 7 Ford Fiesta. This covers roughly 2002 to 2018 models. 

For clarity, you can see which model you have based on the images below.

Does your gearbox actually need replacing?

One thing to consider is that you may not need to replace your gearbox if you’re only experiencing minor issues. If you haven’t serviced your gearbox recently, this may be a good place to start. For example, some automatic gearboxes are very sensitive to having the transmission fluid changed at regular intervals, and if you haven’t done this you may be noticing issues. A fluid change may be enough to eliminate any issues you’re experiencing.

Additionally with a manual gearbox it may not actually be the gearbox itself that needs replacing. It could well be the clutch, especially if you notice it starting to slip – or it could even be the flywheel that needs replacing. If you’re not absolutely sure you need a gearbox replacement, it’s worth consulting a good mechanic that you trust. However, if you are sure your gearbox is headed for the scrapyard, there are lots of things you will need to consider. 

Manual or automatic

Firstly, whether you’re driving a manual or automatic Ford Fiesta is going to dictate how you source a new gearbox and how much you pay for one. Automatic gearboxes are probably going to be more expensive to source, although they shouldn’t necessarily be more expensive to fit – depending on where you take your car to be worked on and how familiar they are with the Fiesta’s automatic boxes. 

Depending on which model of Fiesta you have, you may have a 4-speed true torque converter automatic or a 6-speed PowerShift automatic. Manual gearboxes are generally either 5 or 6 speed across the range.

If you do have a PowerShift gearbox, my advice would be to consult with Ford as it may be the case that your gearbox is under warranty and they may offer you some money towards the repair as a goodwill gesture. As mentioned these are notorious for going wrong and if you have a PowerShift gearbox it’s likely that at some point in its life it will need repairing.

Gearbox replacement cost for a Ford Fiesta

Before we go into the details of sourcing and fitting a new gearbox, let’s look at the cost to replace a Ford Fiesta gearbox. We’ve broken this down by manual and automatic based on every type of gearbox fitted to a Ford Fiesta from 2002 – 2018. If you plan to fit the gearbox yourself you can remove the charge for labour, which we’ve estimated at £50 per hour. Additionally we’ve included the cost for a clutch – of course if you need more than just a clutch – flywheel, master or slave cylinder, etc, your gearbox replacement will cost more.

As I’m sure you can appreciate, there is a wide range of possible costs for this work – however, you should find that in most cases, your costs are roughly similar to what’s quoted here. Additionally I didn’t bother to phone Ford and get quotes for reconditioned gearboxes as very few people with cars such as this should be going down this route – it’s just a waste of money.

Manual Gearboxes

Mk 6 Fiesta

5-speed IB5 manual

Used gearbox cost from a vehicle recycler: £192.50 (eBay)

Reconditioned gearbox cost from a gearbox specialist: £495.00 (eBay)

Clutch kit: £128.69 (Euro Car Parts)

Labour to remove, replace clutch and re-fit gearbox: £400 + VAT (based on 8 hours labour)

Mk 7 Fiesta

5-speed IB5 manual

Used gearbox cost from a vehicle recycler: £150.00 (eBay)

Reconditioned gearbox cost from a gearbox specialist: £1,150 (Directly from a gearbox specialist)

Clutch kit: £174.89 (Euro Car Parts)

Labour to remove, replace clutch and re-fit gearbox: £400 + VAT (based on 8 hours labour)

6-speed MMT6 manual

Used gearbox cost from a vehicle recycler: £140.00

Reconditioned gearbox cost from a gearbox specialist: £1,100 (directly from a gearbox specialist)

Clutch kit: £174.89 (Euro Car Parts)

Labour to remove, replace clutch and re-fit gearbox: £400 + VAT (based on 8 hours labour)

Automatic Gearboxes

Mk6 Fiesta

4-speed 4F27E automatic

Used gearbox cost from a vehicle recycler: £219.99 (eBay)

Reconditioned gearbox cost from a gearbox specialist: Unavailable at time of research

Labour to remove and re-fit gearbox: estimate £400 + VAT (based on 8 hours labour)

Total cost fitted by a garage or mechanic – £619.99 + VAT

Total cost if you fit by yourself – £219.99 

Mk7 Fiesta

6-speed PowerShift DPS6 DCT 

Used gearbox cost from a vehicle recycler: Unavailable at time of research

Reconditioned gearbox cost from a gearbox specialist: £1,400

Labour to remove and re-fit gearbox: estimate £400 + VAT (based on 8 hours labour)

Please don’t rely on these as an exact costing for your gearbox replacement – this is only meant to be indicative. You may find your gearbox replacement costs more or less than what’s quoted in this article.

Sourcing a gearbox

Realistically, there are only three places you’re going to be able to source a replacement gearbox for your Fiesta, be it manual or automatic. Either you’re going to get one out of a used car from a breakers yard, or on eBay or another reseller, you’re going to get a reconditioned exchange gearbox from a gearbox specialist or you’re going to go to the dealer and get a brand new unit. Let’s look into how you might go about each of these and the pros and cons of both.

Breakers yard

This is by far the cheapest option providing you know what you’re doing. Most cities will have breakers yards, where damaged cars or cars that are going for scrap end up so that people can take parts off them. These are invaluable places, and in all likelihood your local breakers’ yard will have a Fiesta Mk6, 7 or 8 for you to take the gearbox out of. Many breakers’ yards and automotive recycling companies have already taken the gearbox out and will sell it to you as a standalone unit, without you having to actually take it off the donor vehicle.

Places such as Silverlake and Charles Trent actually catalogue their inventory and make it available either on their own websites or on the likes of eBay, so you can shop online without actually going to the yard – but be warned, you’ll likely pay a significant delivery cost as gearboxes are heavy things. Usually you’ll have some idea of the engine that was mated to the gearbox and the kind of mileage the gearbox has done, and most places will even run a VRN or VIN check for you to make sure it’s the correct gearbox for your vehicle.

However – I wouldn’t rely on this, and I’d ensure you get the correct gearbox code and engine code for your vehicle and compare it to any used gearbox you plan to buy, just to make sure. You don’t want to get to the point of fitting the new box and find out you’ve purchased a slightly different variant or something, and you need to return the gearbox.

Additionally you should bear in mind that you have no idea how this gearbox is going to perform or function until you actually install it in the car and take it for a drive. Meaning that it could be worse than your old gearbox – you just don’t know the condition it’s in. Most places will have refund policies or warranties so that if the box is no good, you can either get a refund or get another one, but to be honest if you’re paying someone to fit the gearbox for you, this isn’t a road you want to go down as you’ve wasted a whole load of money on someone’s labour. This is the risk you take when buying a gearbox from a breakers’ yard or vehicle recycler.   

Reconditioned exchange gearbox

This is what most independent garages will opt for if you book your car in for a gearbox replacement. There are businesses out there that strip down and rebuild old gearboxes. These might have been gearboxes that have failed or have gone in for repair and have been deemed uneconomical for the owner to repair them. These places will strip the gearbox down, identify the issue, clean the gearbox up and then rebuild it back up to the point where it’s essentially no different to a brand new gearbox. Any part that needs to be replaced will be replaced, and these gearboxes will be fully tested before they’re shipped out.

For example, if you booked your car into a garage with gearbox failure, they might tell you that a replacement gearbox is cheaper than repairing your issue, simply because you will pay a significant amount in terms of man-hours to have that repair done. The garage will source you a reconditioned gearbox, and as part of sourcing the reconditioned box, they will send your old gearbox to the supplier – what’s known as an “exchange”. You pay the bill, you get a new gearbox and the supplier gets your old one. They will then strip down and rebuild your gearbox, and if someone else needs a new gearbox they will get your rebuilt old gearbox and their old, broken gearbox will be given to them as an exchange, and so the cycle continues.

This is something to bear in mind, as you will need to make arrangements to send your old gearbox back to the supplier you choose. However, there’s usually provision for doing this after your new box has been fitted. If you don’t, you’ll likely get charged to the value of a new gearbox – as this is how the supplier sources their inventory. Using a reconditioned gearbox like this generally gives you more peace of mind over securing one from a breakers’ yard or vehicle recycler, but isn’t as expensive as a new gearbox from the dealer.

Pros 

• A like new gearbox for a lot less money
• Peace of mind – you generally get a better warranty on a reconditioned gearbox than you would with a used one

Cons

• The second most expensive option of the three
• You will need to make arrangements to send your old gearbox back to them, which can be a pain

Brand new from the dealer

This is by far the most expensive option and in all honesty, probably won’t net you a unit that’s any more reliable than a reconditioned gearbox for a significantly higher outlay. However, if you want to, and you feel it’s worth doing, you can contact the dealer and get a replacement brand new unit.

Ford operates through a network of dealers – some of the largest include TrustFord and Evans Halshaw. Each will have a parts department and you’ll need to call them to get hold of a gearbox. They will generally be able to find the correct unit based on your vehicle registration or VIN, and will also be able to deliver it to your door. A new gearbox won’t be an exchange unit, so you won’t have to send your old gearbox anywhere. 

Don’t expect the gearbox to be in stock straight away – it could be a few days or weeks before the right unit can be sourced, especially if you have an older model. Also be aware that the dealer is unlikely to have a gearbox for a very old Fiesta in stock – you are likely going to have to wait for a few weeks for one to be sourced and delivered either to you or to the dealership for you to collect it.

Pros

• You will get a manufacturer warranty with a new unit – as you are buying directly from the manufacturer, so if something goes wrong you will have some recourse
• Peace of mind – this is a brand new gearbox from Ford

Cons

• Unnecessarily expensive – you’re very unlikely to notice any difference between a brand new gearbox and a reconditioned one. Expect to pay upwards of £1500 – £2000 vs around £600 – £1000 for a reconditioned unit

Other parts – clutch, master/slave cylinder, flywheel, etc

It kind of goes without saying if you know how to work on cars, but you won’t be able to get any of these other parts used. Whenever you’re changing the gearbox, you’ll want to change the clutch as well; it just makes sense seeing as the gearbox is out. For the sake of £100 for a decent clutch kit from a local motor factors, it’s worth doing. 

If your vehicle has a DMF (dual-mass flywheel) you might also need to replace this, especially if there’s any scoring or marking on the flywheel. If your flywheel is cracked anywhere, it’s definitely due for replacement. If your flywheel is a solid flywheel, these are very rarely replaced – so as long as there’s no obvious damage or any high spots, you’ll probably leave this in.

Don’t try and buy a used clutch, or any other part of the hydraulic system. Of course if you did your clutch very recently it might not need replacing, but it’s always a sensible thing to do if the gearbox is out. You can pick up a clutch kit for any vehicle at a good Motor Factors such as Euro Car Parts, GSF or Spartan.

Conclusion

To answer the initial question – a Ford Fiesta gearbox replacement can cost anywhere from around £300 to over £1800. It depends entirely what kind of Fiesta you have, what year it is and what gearbox it has. Generally manuals are more widely available than automatics meaning that manuals are cheaper, and likely you will be able to source a gearbox much easier and your car will be off the road for less time. However, it’s worth shopping around and seeing if you can get a bargain.

Hope this article helped – stay tuned for more!

Check out some more of our Ford Fiesta related articles!